Faith
What makes Mexico such a deliciously complex and colorful country is, quite obviously,
its culture. And that culture has its feet firmly planted in its faith. That faith may be in the Catholic Church or it could be in a pantheon of native deities. Quite commonly, it is in a blend of the two that is now so complexly interwoven that the differences are often no longer noted. This
blending of spiritual beliefs manifests itself perfectly in one central figure: The Virgin of Guadalupe.
It may come as a surprise to foreigners that in a country known for its patriarchy, its machismo tendencies, and its devotion to the Catholic church, the figure that reigns supreme is a goddess. Her image is omnipresent from Tijuana to Quintana Roo. When you do come across an altar dedicated to a different virgin (of which there are a dizzying number), rest assured: it’s one of her deputies. The Virgin is, in fact, more visible and more celebrated than Jesus Christ himself.
The reason goes back to precolonial times. The Virgin is quite simply a Catholic representation of Tonantzin Tlalli: the goddess, Mother Earth, the provider of all our needs. You’ve most likely heard of Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent, but to truly understand Mexican culture, you must understand the importance of Tonantzin Tlalli.
The Nahuatlacah did not actually have gods or devils, “good” or “bad;” they had energies they revered and utilized. The Spanish, for lack of understanding and vocabulary, dubbed them as gods and demons. And in their attempts to convert the indigenous populations to the Catholic faith, they built their cathedrals on top of sacred native temples and set the dates and images of Catholic saints on to those of native “gods.”
The story of the Virgin of Guadalupe is that she appeared to the native, Juan Diego, on Tepeyac Hill just outside the former Tenochtitlan (in what is now Mexico City), and instructed him to ask the bishop to build her a church. To help Juan Diego convince the bishop that he was not lying (and therefore subject to torture or death), she told him to pick the castellano roses that were growing around her. When Juan Diego opened his ayacate (cape) filled with roses before the bishop, an extraordinary, detailed image of the virgin had miraculously appeared on it.
In all likelihood, it’s a story made up by the Catholic church to convince the indigenous populations to convert. It was presented after twelve years of eager genocide committed against the natives, when the Spanish realized that perhaps it would be a better political move to get them to join the team, rather than eradicate them completely. But what makes the Virgin of Guadalupe so incredible is not just the story of her appearance and success, but of her actual image.
Her gown is embroidered with sacred, hallucinogenic plants; the black ribbon around her waist was a symbol used by natives to signify a woman was pregnant; the cloak of stars is said to be a map back to Pleiades, where the Nahuatlacah believe they first came from. Her left foot is raised, just as an Aztec dancer always begins with her left foot.
The Virgin may well have originated as one of the better scams the Church has pulled off, but the truth is, she has allowed native Mexicans to carry on many of their beliefs and values under the guise of Catholicism these 500 plus years. That mother that cares for her family and community, is still the jefa of all jefes. Family comes before anything else—before career, before wealth, before friends and parties, before material accumulation. And for all of papa’s strut and swagger, it’s Mama that rules that roost.
So why the discussion of Catholic iconography in a cookbook? Simply put, this Catholic- Indigenous belief system is the central nervous system of the Mexican psyche, and if you’re aspiring to make the mera Mexican food, it would help to take a few turns around the block in their shoes. The pantheon of Native-Catholic god-saints powers a calendar replete with holy days, pueblo parties, and agro-fiestas, along with the savory dishes that accompany them.
Tonantzin Tlalli and her army of Holy Virgins play a lead role in these celebrations, and in daily life in general––from a reliance on intuition and feeling, to a love of color and dance, to the deep respect given towards mothers. So when you’re patting out a tortilla, or mixing a mole, it’s the spirit of these lovely ladies you’ll want to keep in mind (Gordon Ramsey and the likes have no place in a Mexican kitchen). And if native goddesses and Catholic virgins are more than you can swallow, light a candle for your abuelita instead.